Leftover roast chicken delish in salad

Determined not to waste a morsel of the whole chicken I roasted Tuesday night, tonight I used the leftover meat in a green salad. I had two thighs' worth, which by the way is the most flavourful meat on the bird and still tender after a few days. I cut the meat into bite-sized chunks and tossed it with salad greens, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts, and blue cheese.



I whisked together a simple white wine vinaigrette to go with it, and was very satisfied with the results. I've had chicken breast on salads many times and the thigh meat is just so much tastier. It was buttery, and still had that oven-roasted taste even after being in the fridge for a few days. When I spoke with Chef Gordon Ramsay recently he mentioned that one of the ways he's been cutting down on food costs is by buying chicken thighs instead of chicken breast, and I see why. It's much more durable than the breast, which dries out so quickly and doesn't have a fraction of the flavour.

As for the picked-clean carcass, it's currently sitting in a pot of burbling water on the stove where it will stay for a couple of hours until I have some golden, flavourful stock.

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Tips and tricks: Perfect roast chicken

I've roasted a few birds in my time, but have often been disappointed with the results. Despite my best efforts -- basting in butter, basting in oil, turning it from side to side, etc. -- there was something I was missing. Oh, they were all juicy enough, and usually perfectly cooked, but I found them lacking in the flavour department and the skin not golden or crispy enough.


Well last night in cooking class we roasted chickens, and I have to say that thanks to a few tips from Chef, this was without a doubt my best effort yet! Here's what I learned:

1) Don't rub the bird's skin with butter or oil before putting it in the oven. Salt and pepper it well all over though, including inside the cavity. Rub the salt and pepper in, making sure it's adhering. Any butter you use at this point (I didn't) should be placed under the skin, next to the breast. It's relatively easy to loosen the skin in this area.

2) Even if you're not stuffing the chicken, put something in the cavity to help flavour it. I quartered an onion, added a few chunks of unpeeled carrot, a celery stalk broken into three pieces, some parsley stems (not the leaves), and a few sprigs of thyme. A couple of whole cloves of garlic would've been nice as well.

3) Sit the chicken on a bed of rough chopped mirepoix (50% onion, 25% carrot, 25% celery) in your roasting pan. The fat will drip onto the vegetables, which you'll use at the end to make a lovely, flavourful jus (way better than gravy!).

3) Roast the chicken at 400C for about 30 minutes, until it starts to turn golden, and then take it out and baste it with butter. Pop it back in the oven for another 30-40 minutes. Take it out, baste it with butter again, and return it to the oven for another 10 minutes or so. Take it out, baste it again, then sit the bird on a cutting board, breast side down, to rest. Tent foil over it.

NOTE: These instructions are for a 3-4 lb bird, and keep in mind that ovens vary so you'll have to judge doneness on your own. All in all you should baste it three times over the course of the cooking process.



4) Testing doneness: There are a few ways to do this. You can plunge a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh - if it reads 165C to 170C, it's done. You can also wiggle the leg to see if it moves easily in the socket and pulls away from the rest of the bird. If it does, it's probably done. If it's not moving easily it may need more time. Thirdly, you can pierce the thickest part of the thigh with your knife to see if the juices run clear. Be patient though - they may run clear initially but turn pink after a few seconds. If you see pink, back into the oven!

5) Making a jus: When the bird is resting, use the pan juices to make a jus. A jus, unlike a gravy, doesn't have flour. It's essentially concentrated pan juices reduced down, deglazed with chicken stock and white wine, and with the addition of butter, olive oil, salt and fresh herbs at the end. It should look deep brown in colour and be extremely rich in flavour. With Chef's help, I cranked the gas burner and got the pan juices and softened mirepoix sizzling. The juices reduced down by about half and at that point the vegetables began browning on the bottom and the whole pan started collecting browned, cooked bits on the bottom. At this point, I removed the vegetables, keeping the liquid.

I added the white wine (3/4 cup) and deglazed the pan, bringing up all the brown bits (called the "fond," French for bottom). After a few minutes, I added some chicken stock, and kept stirring and deglazing. I continued to reduce the liquid, again, by about half. Then I added a hunk of butter (about a heaping tablespoon's worth), and whisked it in quickly off the heat, making sure it was fully incorporated and didn't break in the sauce. I then added some olive oil, salt, and fresh parsley. At this point the sauce was dark brown and wonderfully flavourful. Quite honestly, better than any gravy I've ever tasted.

And remember, after you've roasted the chicken, save the carcass for stock! It's one of the easiest things to make and you'll use it for everything, from risottos, to pasta dishes, to soup, to sauces.

Salut!

Suzanne

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Braised pork with leeks and bok choy

When I was at the market on Saturday I picked up a pork tenderloin, thinking it's been a long time since I made a pork dish. Initially I'd planned to stuff it and roast it whole, but I also craved something light and healthy.



I came upon a simple-looking recipe for Braised pork with leeks and bok choy and decided on that. The recipe also allowed me to employ one of the new cooking techniques I've learned in my George Brown class, which is steaming dishes with the use of parchment paper. It's not quite "en papillote," which refers to a dish cooked in a sealed envelope or package of parchment, but it's close. When it came time to cover my frypan to steam the bok choy during the last three to four minutes, I realized I didn't have a lid big enough. So I used parchment.



There's a method of cutting parchment so it fits your pan, but explaining folds in text is difficult -- you really have to see it, to get it. Basically though, you want the circle of parchment to cover the food, cutting a hole in the centre so steam can escape. It worked perfectly - my greens cooked, everything else stayed moist and tender, and the parchment even helped keep the food warm on the stove in case I wanted a second helping. And I did want one, but opted to save the rest for next day's lunch instead.

Braised pork with leeks and bok choy

1 1/2 lb pork tenderloin
2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and black pepper
1 large leek, white part only, thinly sliced
1 1/4 inch pice of gingerroot, peeled and cut into thin sticks
3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 3/4 cups water
3/4 cup dry white wine or rice wine
2-3 tbsp light soy sauce, to taste
3 tsp superfine sugar, or to taste
2 large heads of bok choy, about 8 oz

Cut the pork into bite-sized chunks, trimming away any fat or sinew. Heat a heavy skillet with a little olive oil. Lightly season the pork pieces and brown in batches for about a minute on each side, until golden brown all over. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Add a litle more oil to the skillet and stir in the leek, ginger, and garlic. Stir frequently over medium high heat for 4 - 6 minutes until the leek begins to soften. Add the water, wine, soy sauce, and sugar, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze.

Return the pork to the pan and stir well. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Partially cover the pan with a lid and gently braise for an hour, stirring from time to time, until the pork is very tender and the sauce has been reduced by half.

Cut the bok choy into quarters lengthwise and place on top of the pork. Cover the pan with the lid and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes until the bok choy is just tender. Serve the braised pork and vegetables with steamed rice.

Courtesy Healthy Appetite, Gordon Ramsay, Key Porter, 2009

Some personal notes on the recipe:

1) I chopped up the bok choy because I wanted the pieces to be close to the same size on the plate. I didn't want big hunks of bok choy dwarfing everything else.

2) I used Jasmine rice for its fragrant aroma and flavour. Really enjoy cooking with Jasmine, particularly in winter.

3) The white wine really added a depth of flavour to the recipe. Make sure you use a good quality one. I used some Oyster Bay sauvignon blanc, which is one of my favourite white wines to drink.

Salut!

Suzanne

Email your comments to suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Warming winter soups

In the winter months soup is one of my favourite things to make. It fills your kitchen with a delicious smell, and the leftovers last for several days (alternately you can freeze servings for a quick reheated dinner down the line).



Depending on what ingredients you use soup can actually taste quite spring-like, even if it's February. One of my favourites is a green pea soup with mint (included recipe below). If you've ever made pea soup from scratch, with frozen peas, you know the vibrant green it turns after it's blended -- I guarantee it'll turn you off canned pea soup for life.

Fresh tomato soup is another wonderful thing -- I thought I hated tomato soup until I made a lovely one from Donna Hay's New Food Fast. It's best in the summer months of course when tomatoes are at their peak, but can also be made in the winter if you find some flavourful Romas and roast them in the oven beforehand.

The first soup I ever made was back in my university days, a creamy potato chowder with bacon. With some homemade Cheddar biscuits to go alongside, it was one of the first meals I was truly proud of, and one that made me realize how much I enjoyed cooking.

I haven't tried a new soup recipe in some time though, which makes me think I need some new inspiration. Thinking I might find it in the Times Online's recent post on 10 super seasonal soups.

A quick browse, and a few have caught my eye, mainly the Savoy cabbage and white bean soup, and the parsnip soup with chestnuts and mixed herb pesto.

Now, where was that biscuit recipe?!

Fresh Pea Soup with Mint

4 cups frozen or fresh peas
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 1/4 cups chicken stock, or more if needed for thinning
1/2 cup milk or cream, or more if needed
pinch granulated sugar
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh mint
1 tsp salt, or to taste
1/4 tsp black pepper, or to taste
1/2 cup toasted or fried croutons (optional)

In a saucepan, bring peas, onion and stock to a boil. Simmer for six to eight minutes and puree. Stir in the milk or cream and sugar. If the consistency is too thick, thin with either stock or more milk. To serve reheat with the mint, reserving a little for garnish. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with croutons and leftover mint.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Courtesy, Mrs. Cook's Kitchen, Basics & Beyond, Gay Cook, 2000.


Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Brioche and bananas

This isn't my first post about French toast and it won't be my last. It's my absolute favourite breakfast food, and I'm always looking to perfect it.



Today I used thickly sliced, raisin-studded brioche bread from St. Lawrence Market, dredged the pieces in a mix of eggs, milk, with a splash of orange juice, a dribble of vanilla, some cinnamon, salt, and sugar. I didn't measure, just eyeballed everything.

A couple minutes on each side in a frypan of sizzling melted butter, and the pieces came out golden brown and crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. I can see why brioche is considered the ultimate bread for French toast. I sliced up a banana for garnish, and let me tell you, French toast and banana is a wonderful combination, especially when you add in a good pour of real maple syrup.

No better way to start the day, even if you're starting your day at noon!

Salut!

Suzanne

Send your French toast suggestions to suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Got chickpeas? A simple but delicious supper

I'm currently taking classes three nights a week and on those evenings I barely have an hour to make and eat dinner. And while I have gone the meal replacement bar route on occasion, those never really satisfy me.



So I'm trying out a few recipes that can be made quickly, from pantry staples, and which taste delicious and fill me up. Here's one I've made a couple times now, from Gordon Ramsay's latest cookbook Healthy Appetite. I really enjoy how the flavours come together at the end -- you have to like chickpeas though, as they're the main ingredient.

Flatbread, feta, and chickpea salad

2 large, thin flatbreads or pita breads
1/2 tsp paprika
4 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 red chile, seeded and minced
14oz can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
generous squeeze of lemon juice
large handful of Italian parsley leaves
sea salt and black pepper
5oz feta cheese

Heat oven to 350F. Split the breads horizontally. Mix the paprika with 2 tbsp olive oil. Brush each piece of bread with the mixture and place on baking sheet. Bake until lightly golden brown and crisp, just 2 to 3 minutes for the flatbreads, 4 to 5 minutes for pita bread.

Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a pan, add the onion, and cook, stirring, over medium heat for 6-8 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and chile and saute for another minute. Tip in the chickpeas and stir to mix. Squeeze over the lemon juice , add the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Warm the chickpeas through, then tip into a large bowl and let stand for a few minutes. Crumble over two-thirds of the cheese and toss well. Divide between serving plates and crumble over remaining feta. Break bread into smaller pieces and serve on the side.

Serves 3-4

Courtesy Healthy Appetite, Gordon Ramsay, 2008

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Top five food movies

I love films where food plays a starring role - my two passions combined! And though there are many fine flicks for the gourmand in all of us, here are five I particularly enjoy:

Ratatouille (2007) - Pixar's gorgeously-rendered creation about a rat named Remy who goes to Paris with dreams of being a chef. He teams up with a restaurant's garbage boy to secretly put his culinary skills into practice. Paris and its classical cuisine looks simply divine in this heartwarming family film.



Big Night (1996) - Anyone who knows the hard work and sometimes heartbreak of owning a restaurant must sympathize with this poignant film about two brothers, Primo (Tony Shalhoub) and Secondo (Stanley Tucci) trying to save their intimate Italian restaurant from going under. Their plan: one special night, with an incredible traditional menu, to make or break their establishment. The food in this film was so impressive that it's apparently sparked 'Big Night' parties, where the entire menu is recreated, notably the showstopper timpano.

Eat Drink Man Woman (1994) - Ang Lee wrote and directed this story about a senior chef who lives with his three grown yet unmarried daughters. Though the plot mainly centers around their struggles in life, particularly the middle daughter, the patriarch's elaborate Sunday dinners are one of the linking devices for the film and one of its highlights.

Waitress (2007) - An indie gem about a diner waitress (Keri Russell) who channels her frustrations in life, among them a terrible husband, into the most incredible looking pies you've ever seen. Sadly, the film's writer-director Adrienne Shelly never got to see its release - she was killed by a man trying to rob her apartment in 2006.

Willy Wonka And The Chocolate Factory (1971) - Admit it, you were jealous of those five kids who got to take a tour of the magical Willy Wonka factory. Well I was at least. The whole place was made of candy! But I would've happily given up the gum that never loses its flavour, the lickable wallpaper, and the stays-fizzy soda pop for an endless supply of Wonka Bars. I'm all about the chocolate.

Put on one of these films tonight, and make sure you have some snacks on hand because they'll make your mouth water.

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Roasted yellow pepper pasta

I'm a recipe girl, but I have to admit there's a real sense of satisfaction that comes from taking ingredients you have on hand and making them into a dish all your own, even if it's a simple one.



Last night I had an hour to make and eat dinner before heading to cooking class at George Brown. I was craving pasta and knew I had a very ripe, use-it-or-lose-it yellow pepper in the crisper. That was the starting point. I roasted it, sliced it up, and tossed it into cooked spaghetti along with a few sauteed and crushed grape tomatoes, olive oil, chili flakes, and a minced glove of garlic.

With chunks of feta mixed in at the end, salt and pepper to taste, and a spritz of lemon juice over top, you have a delicious and light-tasting pasta dish, all in the span of about 20 minutes.

Magnifique!

Spaghetti with Roasted Yellow Pepper, Tomatoes, And Feta

1/4 pkg of spaghetti
1 clove garlic, minced
1 yellow pepper, roasted, peeled, and sliced
1/2 cup grape tomatoes
1/4 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1/8 tsp chili flakes
1 tsp lemon juice
Good quality olive oil
Salt
Pepper

Cook spaghetti to al dente. Drain, rinse off excess starch, and toss with a little olive oil, reserving a couple tablespoons of pasta cooking liquid.

While pasta is cooking, roast yellow pepper in a 450F oven until skin is black and blistered. Remove and carefully place pepper in a paper bag (if you have one, not crucial). This will help loosen the skin. Peel pepper, remove seeds, and slice.

In a medium-sized pan over medium heat, saute garlic and chili flakes in olive oil, add grape tomatoes and after a couple minutes crush them lightly to break the skin and release the juices, being careful not to let the garlic burn (remove from heat if necessary). Add the sliced pepper, cooked pasta, pasta water, and chunks of feta cheese to the pan. Spritz a bit of lemon juice over top, season with salt and pepper, and toss everything together. Taste again before serving.

Serves one, but can easily be modified for two or more.

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Eating on the cheap

I like to think I'm pretty practical when it comes to buying groceries. For fruits and vegetables I buy what's in season and I frequent greengrocers where lemons can be had five for $1 rather than chain grocery stores which often charge more. I don't buy pricey seafood that much (even though I know I should be getting more fish in my diet), and lately I've turned to buying more flavourful (and cheaper) chicken thighs instead of chicken breasts.

That said, on occasion I've spent way too much on cheese, thrown out wilted, soggy vegetables I forgot about, and pitched milk and eggs past their due date. The point is, we could all take a lesson in making the most of our grocery bill without having to resort to boxed mac and cheese. I read this article recently about how a couple went from spending $300 a week on food (yikes!) to $50. Check it out, there are some good ideas.

For example, I can attest to the cheapness of stock bones. I picked up a bag of chicken bones from a butcher for a scant $2, and if I'd had a bigger order I wager they would've been thrown in gratis.

Happy, and thrifty, shopping.

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com

Checking out Chabichou

Update: My interview with Laurent from Chabichou has been rescheduled to Thursday morning. Stay tuned!

This afternoon I'm heading to the Annex area to visit Chabichou, a cheese and gourmet food shop that opened recently.

When I'm there I'll be speaking with Chef Laurent Brion, one of the store's founders, about some of the dozens of cheeses his store offers, as well as how to assemble a good cheese platter for a party. I'll be sure to share his suggestions in a subsequent post.

I'll have to be careful not to go overboard when I'm there. Looking at some of the photos from this recent posting on BlogTO, I'm sure I won't be leaving Chabichou empty-handed!

Salut!

Suzanne

Comments? Email suzannekathrynellis@gmail.com.